Slicking Up Winchester/Rossi 92
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This article is for entertainment only and is not to
be used in lieu of a qualified gunsmith.
Please defer all firearms work to a qualified
gunsmith. Any loads
mentioned in this article are my loads for my guns and have
been carefully worked up using established guidelines and
special tools. The
author assumes no responsibility or liability for use of
these loads, or use or misuse of this article.
Please note that I am not a professional gunsmith,
just a shooting enthusiast and hobbyist, as well as a
article explains work that I performed to my guns without
the assistance of a qualified gunsmith.
Some procedures described in this article require
special tools and cannot/should not be performed without
Disassembling and tinkering with your firearm may
void the warranty. I
claim no responsibility for use or misuse of this article.
Again, this article is for entertainment purposes
and firearms are the trademark/service mark or registered trademark
of their respective manufacturers.
Following are the steps I
performed on my two Rossi’s to slick them up and improve
functioning. As we learn, we may have to replace a part or two
that we over work. That's
part of the risk of the adventure.
I polished using 400/600 grit wet/dry paper or
polishing sticks. To
remove metal I used jeweler’s or needle files.
I stay away from using a high-speed rotary tool because
they remove too much metal and can get away from me and cause
Disassemble the rifle and
thoroughly clean all parts
Polish sides of trigger
Polish trigger spring and trigger mating surface
Lighten trigger spring by bending up
Stone/polish hammer mating surfaces inside the
Polish trigger pivot pin
Polish hammer strut
Polish hammer sides where they contact the lower
Polish hammer face
Remove 3-4 coils from mainspring and flatten
end, or replace with Wolff 19lb Vaquero mainspring
Polish hammer pivot pin
If the carrier is too tight in the receiver,
remove some metal from the right side of the carrier.
Polish both sides of the carrier at the pivot
Remove all burrs
Polish all mating surfaces
Work the ejector spring only
if necessary as follows:
Assemble the ejector, ejector spring, and
ejector collar and insert into the bolt.
If the ejector protrudes about 1/4” from the
front of the bolt, remove 2 coils from the ejector spring and
flatten end (NOTE:
When reassembling the bolt the ejector will lie almost
flat with the bolt face. This
is alright because once the finger lever is in place the
ejector spring will be under tension.)
If the ejector lies almost flat against the bolt
face, do not remove any
coils from the ejector spring.
Polish ejector collar ends
Polish ejector collar camming surface
Polish lever retaining pin (only if necessary).
(NOTE: This is the
pin in the rear of the finger lever that sits in a detent in
the receiver and holds the lever closed.)
Polish front and camming surfaces of bolt locks
Polish hammer camming surface on the rear of the
Polish hammer camming surface underneath rear of bolt
Remove burrs and loose metal
Polish sides and rails. This is a light polish
only; otherwise the bolt will be too loose in the frame.
Ensure ejector rides smoothly in ejector cutout
Polish front of bolt lock camming surfaces
If extractor is too stiff when the bolt closes without
a case, remove metal from the REAR of the extractor until
there is still a small amount of tension on the extractor.
Remove burrs and polish bolt rails.
Try bolt in receiver to test for free travel.
Stone and polish any high spots
When reassembling the rifle, be sure all parts are lightly
much oil attracts dirt, too little oil causes excessive wear